VinoWeek Episode 15 - Is Napa Valley in a PR Hot Seat?

If it seems like the frequency of counterfeiting, embezzlement, data breaches and fraud have been increasing in the world of wine, it's because it has.  Fighting crime will be the major focus of the 24th annual Wine Industry Financial Symposium to be held Sept. 21-22 in Napa.  This Symposium will provide an excellent opportunity for individuals in the business to learn ways to avoid some of the accounting pitfalls of running a small business.  Traditionally small wineries haven't used  trust and verify style management to run the financial side of their businesses.  The Symposium will feature a panel of crime experts that can help  you start a program to better secure your business from criminals.  If you're in the wine business,  you can't afford not to be there. 

The "Sherlock Holmes of Wine", Maureen Downey has announced the launch of WINEFRAUD.com.  It's being touted as a resource for buyers, producers and vendors of fine wines.  As such winefraud.comoffers several membership levels geared toward consumers of wine and trade professionals.  Maureen's record as a defender for consumers against wine fraud is well documented.  She was a major player in helping solve the case against Rudy Kurniawan, the notorious wine counterfeiter, now serving a ten year prison sentence in Southern California.

The incident involving eleven women belonging to the Sistahs of the Reading Edge Book Club being booted off the Napa Valley Wine Train, blew up on social media after wine train principals posted a defense of their actions on facebook.  As it turns out the ladies were more than just bookworms and their use of social media platforms facebook, periscope and twitter - #laughingwhileblack, helped fuel lively public discussions in the bay area and beyond.  Is this a case of a clash of cultures or latent racism cloaked by elitism?  We weren't there so we couldn't possibly identify the cause.   The story is multilayered and while its potential impact on tourism in Napa Valley can't be measured - it doesn't look good.  The Wine Train's CEO Anthony Giaccio, days later issued what appeared to be a genuine mea culpa to the book club members and invited them back for a do over.   He asked them to bring 39 more family members and friends, enough to fill up an entire car as his personal guests.  For now his appeal has fallen on deaf ears.  The Book Club has hired civil rights lawyer Waukeen McCoy to represent them in a five million dollar lawsuit claiming 'Malicious Oppression'.  If you've driven up Highway 29 through Napa Valley you have no doubt seen the signs that say 'no limousines or no tour buses'.  That's certainly one way to avoid the hassle of having to deal with large groups of tourist.  Companies in the hospitality business  in wine country should take notice and review your policies regarding how you deal with larger groups of people visiting your venues. 

What's the ideal temperature to serve your red wines?  Matthew DeBord pens a good article about how to get the best flavors out of your wine and Bill and I go on a rant about poor wine and food service in the restaurant business.  Vic Poulos offers some advice as well on how to care for your wines before you drink them.  The bottom line heat is the enemy, so treat your wines like your perishable groceries and you'll get the best results.

Speaking of heat, its been hot and dry in Washington this summer and wildfires throughout the state have some farmers and vintners wondering if their grapes might be smoke tainted.  Grape samples can be sent to external labs that can check for traces of smoke taint.  Getting that information before you take on the expense of processing the grapes seems like a no brainer, because wines made with smoke tainted grapes can offer some unflattering flavors, that become more pronounced as the wine ages. 

Have you ever tasted a natural wine?  Perhaps you've had one but didn't know it.  Natural Wine Bars that sport "Hippie Juice" a pejorative, have been gaining  popularity in Europe and now a few entrepreneurs are attempting to carve out a market in the U. S.   Check out this article 'You Make Me FeelLike a Natural Wine' to learn more and find a few examples of some natural wines you might try.

Thanks to all for listening and tell a fellow wino about us.  Cheers!   

VinoWeek Episode 14 - Stop Dreaming....

After selling his wildly successful Meomi wine brand to Constellation Brand Inc. Joseph Wagner is looking to the Oregon frontier to create his next super brand.   At the ripe young age of 33 this entrepreneur is making his presence known on the west coast.  Elsewhere in Oregon, Willamette Valley Vineyards has tendered an offer of preferred stock to wine enthusiasts.   They plan to build two small production wineries in the Eola Hills and Walla Walla AVAs.   A posting on Jim's Loire blog wonders why Tim Atkins and Ron Washam's dispute with Georg Riedel was settled so quickly; whereas Jayne Powell - aka Champagne Jayne'scase, with the Le Comite Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne seems to be stuck in a legal limbo that has her facing financial ruin.  The famed French wine regions of Burgundy and Champagne have been recently added to Unesco's world heritage listing.  Laurent Fabius, the country's foreign minister is making plans to promote more tourism in these wine regions.   The piece written by Laurence Girard for The Guardian conversely ends by taking a cheap shot at Napa Valley for the success of its tourism model.  Madison Wade reports for KRCRTV, on the owners ofButter Creek Ranch Winery in Trinity County California having to declare their entire crop for 2015 a loss, because of the smoke and ash from fires this summer.  Sadly they suffered the same fate as recently as 2008.  We can already see the legal lawsuits lining up regarding the "world's first" commercially distributed cannabis infused beer due to hit the market this fall.  If your employer requires periodic or random drug tests you'll want to avoid these products as we're pretty sure you'll test positive on a culture panel.  Owner Mason "Dude" says, "Like the cannabis product, we recommend taking our double IPA in small amounts… it’s a big beer, and a dab will do ya”.  Our wine recommendation, an organic beauty, comes from the French Rhone Valley.  That's all for this week.  Thanks for listening and cheers.                 

VinoWeek Episode 13 - Kuvée - Revolutionizing Single Serve Wine

Boston startup Kuvee has assembleda group of techie scholars, entrepreneurs and venture capitalist in order to go into the wine preservation business.  Their idea "a convenience play - drink what you want, it stays fresh, and reorder easily.", appears to have merit.   The product is due to launch this fall sostay tuned.   Gargantuan wine, which is rapidly becoming one of our favorite reads, offers us up some well deserved criticism for restaurant owners and chefs.  The post Four Mistakes Every Restaurant Makes exposes those faults and then proposes some simple solutions to correct them.  After reading the article I'll certainly pay more attention to my hand washing ritual before dining.  What do Celebrity chefs, Mexican immigrants and the Food Network have in common and why are chefs so concerned about their symbiotic link?  Roberto Ferdman pens a post for the Washington Post about what may be going on behind the kitchen doors of your favorite restaurant.  David Marcus explains how many wineries are moving away from traditional sales channels for moving their goods and are making a play for increasing direct to consumer sales, in order to increase their margins.  Brand building and connecting with Silicon Valley entrepreneurs seems like a natural fit.  Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Odette Estate Winery and Starmont Winery have recently opened new hospitality centers.  If you have plans to visit Napa Valley put one of these venues on your list of destinations.  Gerilee Densberger, the former bookkeeper of Whitehall Lane Winery in St. Helena, Ca. has been sentenced to nine years in prison for stealing close to $700,000 over a five year period.  We discuss these stories and a few more on this week's edition of VinoWeek.  Thanks for listening and cheers!        

VinoWeek Episode 12 - Humor, Defamation and Cooked Books

Ron Washam aka The Hosemaster of Wine finally gets someone to threaten to sue him.   One of his recent satirical works did not strike the funny bone of Mr. Georg Riedel,  as he had his lawyers fire off a firm request for a retraction of said article.  Michael Ru Bello's bankruptcy filing for his California construction company is causing a lot of headaches for his creditors and for several high profile wine industry players, that worked with him.  David Stoneberg and Sasha Paulsen do a good job of putting the pieces together while explaining how it all went south.  Sandro Boscaini - 'Mr. Amarone' has taken a bold step and listed Masi Agricola on the Italian stock market.  Is this the beginning of a trend?  Several wine projects move forward in the Kenwood area of Sonoma County as the debate over the expansion of wineries in Northern California continues.  Margaret Rand writes a piece for Decanter magazine titled, Six Signs You're Becoming a Wine Buff.  If you have more than a passing interest in wine and you must or your wouldn't be reading this, you'll be able to relate to several of her points.   As always thanks for listening and tell a friend about our podcast.  Cheers

VinoWeek Episode 11 - It's Fire Season in California

California is in the midst of a four year severe drought and the latest visual evidence can be seen in Lake County, where the Rocky wildfire has consumed over 22,000 acres, the largest of about two dozen fires burning around the state.  If anyone is wondering what to get me for Christmas here it is.  The VinGardeValise is a 'rolling hard shell suitcase lined with high-density, temperature-regulating foam that protects bottles while in transit'.  This year Trinchero Family Estates is celebrating the forty year anniversary of the first release of its White Zinfandel.  Who drinks White Zinfandel?  We do.  Since its inception Trinchero has sold $6 billion worth of White Zinfandel.  The article by Andrew Adams features a birds eye of Trinchero's new Lodi facility that is mind blowing.  Ever wonder when's the right time to pop the cork on some of those fine Italian wines you have resting in your cellar?  Kerin O'Keefe pens a wonderful piece outlining some general guidelines when deciding when to open those special bottles.  In a piece for the Business Insider, Peter Spande offers 11 tips for planning your next visit to wine country.  He nails it and it's a must read.  We discuss these topics and more on this weeks' addition of VinoWeek.  If you like what you hear tell a friend.  Cheers!  

VinoWeek Episode 10 - More Consolidation in the Wine Business

Two more big wine deals were announced this week, as E & J Gallo and Vintage Wine Estates make a bid to broaden their holdings in Sonoma County.  Measure AB-20,  a bill aimed at helping illegal farm workers obtain work permits is making its way through the California legislature.  If it reaches Governor Jerry Brown's desk will he sign it?  Rock star winemaker Susana Balbo wants to improve the education and healthcare systems in rural Mendoza,  Argentina.  Instead of just complaining she's running for a seat in the Parliament of the Mendoza region.   Have you ever purchase wine online?  Lucy Shaw puts forth some surprising statistics on the wine buying habits of American wine drinkers.  These topic and more on this episode of VinoWeek.  Thanks for listening and tell a friend.  Cheers!       

VinoWeek Episode 9 - Big Wine

What companies make  80 percent  of the wine purchased  in the U. S. market?

Which two wine companies own half of the wine brands on the top 20 list for off premise sales?  Here's a hint; one is publicly traded the other is not.  Blockbuster brand Meomi was just purchased by Constellation Brands Inc, the latest in a frenzy of acquisitions being made by some big players in the wine business.  Steve Heimoff wonders who got the better end of the deal.  Why would anyone want to hack a winery?  Rob McMillan pens a in-depth article about the Payment Card Industry, with respect to the wine trade and explores topics any consumer that shops using e business should be aware.  Vindu Goel reports in the New York Times that former winemaker and vineyard manager Jeffry James Hill plead no contest to charges of misrepresenting the origin of wines he sold to his clients and other winemakers.  He's out of the wine business and awaiting sentencing.  As always thanks for listening and tell a friend.  Cheers!    

Week of July 12th through the 20th.

A Change Has Come to Chianti Classico

You're invited to a dinner party and you ask your hosts "What should I bring?".   It's an Italian themed affair, so they suggest you bring a bottle of Chianti (Key- awn- ti).  Chianti is the name of a large area between Florence and Siena, with seven subzones that surround the Chianti Classico zone in Tuscany Italy.  When Italians speak of "Classico" they are referring to the original or heart of an area. 

If you're unfamiliar with Chianti it's pretty easy to find entry level Chianti in the $7 to $12 range.  If you want a bottle with more power and fragrance you should search for a  Chianti Classico or a wine from one of the appended regions surrounding the classico zone such as Chianti Rufina (Roo- fee- nah) or Chianti Colli Senesi (Coh- lee Say- nah- zee).  Price points for these wines range between $12 and $25.  Next up in quality is Chianti Classico Riserva.   Riserva signifies that a wine has received extended aging in either wood, bottle or both.   Riservas typically represent the best that a producer has on offer and you can expect to spend between $20  and $40.  If this wasn't confusing enough the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico members ratified new rule changes for Chianti Classico in 2013.  There is now a new classification for Chianti Classico: the Gran Selezione (Say- Lek- zee- on- eh). 

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines are just now coming onto the market and we were fortunate to be invited to the Chianti Classico trade walk around tasting on May 11th 2015, in the Crown Room at The Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco. 

Perched atop Nob Hill with breathtaking panoramic views, The Crown Room was a perfect venue for the premiere debut of the new Chianti Classico Grand Selezione wines.  Grand Selezione is being trumpeted as another tier at the top of the DOCG quality hierarchy.

Pyramid from Chianti clasico wine Consortium

 For a detailed primer on the regulations involving Chianti Classico click this link http://italianwinecentral.com/chianti-classico-gran-selezione/.  For a concise explanation of Chianti Classico with respect to its traditions and how its changed over the years pick up a copy of Matt Kramer's book; Making Sense of Italian Wine. 

What is Chianti Classico Gran Selezione?  The rules regarding the production of the various types of Chianti vary greatly.  Unfortunately, strict codification does not correlate in any way with whether the producers wine is good or not.  Albeit a good starting point, the ultimate proof of a wines worth isn't found in the classification but in the finished product.  The rules of production for Chianti Classico Gran Selezione call for estate grown fruit, 30 months minimum aging, 13% minimum alcohol content and certification by authorized laboratories and special tasting committees. On the surface it sounds great, but here's the rub.  Most quality Chianti Classico producers have been meeting these quality standards for years.   It seems that there isn't much to distinguish between a Gran Selezione or a Riserva Chianti Classico except the premium price one has to pay for the six months additional aging of the former.  Most of the Gran Selezione wines start in the $40 range with several producers pushing the envelope at $150.  Are the Gran Selezione Chianti Classico wines really that much better than the Chianti Classico Riservas we've been enjoying up till now?  Having just added  a bunch of wonderful 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas to my wine stash, none of which I paid more than $30 a bottle for, I can't help but wonder if this new category is an attempt to shake up the stagnant pricing for Chianti Classico?  Are there controls in place to stop a producer from sitting on their Riserva wines for an additional six months, then simply relabeling them and up-charging the consumer for the same wine?  This was a common practice in California back in the seventies and is the reason why in general the words 'Reserve' on a bottle of wine from the Golden State is essentially meaningless. When a producer markets a Gran Selezione, will that product by default declassify their  Riserva; denigrating its value?  How will this new category affect the other wines in a wineries portfolio?  That said, the overall quality of the wines we tasted were outstanding.

Most of the producers line-ups included their Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.  One over-riding theme that kept coming up as I tasted the wines presented was that in general I preferred the Riserva and Chianti Classico wines.  Some of the producers may be trying too hard and the input from the winemaking side made the wines seem  too powerful.  They seemed to have the slap you side the head, look at me make up in their DNA.  Stunningly wonderful wines for sure, representing the best of the best and sure to reward careful, patient cellaring.   And to taste oh what a treat, but if I were choosing a bottle to take to a dinner party, a less ambitious Chianti Classico from a quality minded producer, with its gregarious nature, clarity of fruit and refreshing acidity would be more appropriate.  There's drinking wines and there are tasting wines and a fair number of the Gran Selezione wines as good as they are now fall into the latter category.

The conundrum  the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico must deal with, is confusion in the marketplace.  The minimum grape variety requirement for Sangiovese Chianti Classico is 80%.  Many producers elect to make 100% Sangiovese wines, but the rules allow you to add up to 20% of indigenous varieties or international varieties such as Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In my opinion any of those varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon added at those percentages, combined with over ambitious barrel aging hinders the delicate floral nature of Sangiovese.  From a consumer viewpoint three bottles side by side on a retailers shelf bearing the same Gran Selezione designation, could have strikingly different sensory profiles.  Chianti has always been a blended wine and it wasn't until as recently as 2006 that white grapes such as Trebbiano and Malvasia were eliminated from the prescribed blend.  This myriad of choices for blending only serves to baffle the consumer.  Most producers decided to stay at the 10% and below line if they elected to include Cabernet Sauvignon in their blend.  The wines on offer were well blended and I could not detect any out of balance wines with regard to varietal correctness.  In fact I was surprised to discover after tasting Fontodi's Vigna del Sorbo that it only included 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, having mistaken it's wound tight, firm backbone on initial tasting for a wine that sported a healthy dose of Cabernet.       

There were several producers at the event who candidly disclosed  they were in favor of the Consorzio adopting a 100% Sangiovese disipline, similar to the regulations observed by their neighbors to the south, in the region of Brunello di Montalcino.  Their sentiment has merit.  What brand Brunello di Montalcino has achieved in less than fifty years with regard to prestige and pricing is remarkable.  Whether Brunello's notoriety is a result of excluding any complimentary grapes from the wine is up for debate, but it does offer the consumer (discounting recent scandals) a greater surety of the type of wine they can expect when they make a purchase.              

At this point I have more questions than answers, but I must reiterate the new Gran Selezione wines are high-quality cellar candidates.  These are statement wines of power and panache.  Try as many of the 2010's and 2011's as you can afford and please leave a comment letting  us know what you discover.  Almost half of my recommended wines have not made it to retailers yet, so while you're waiting the smart money is on the excellent and reasonably priced Chianti Classico Riservas from the 2010 and 2011 vintage.  As with any new classification there is always room for refinement and as the dust settles and  we see more of the wines come onto the market, we'll get more of a sense of where the Gran Selezione category is headed.  Grazie Mille to the Consorzio and its producers for hosting the event.

Stay tuned for our Recommendations!   

VinoWeek Episode 8 - Week of May 8th 2015

This week in the world of wine we discuss unauthorized cave building in Napa, The Napa Valley Auction,  Ag drones, and much much more.   Cheers!

VinoWeek EP7 - Week of May 3rd

Auction Napa Valley is coming to you online.  Bidding starts on May 31st and it's a great opportunity for  those in the industry and wine lovers that can't make the trek to Napa Valley participate in the auction.  Peg Melnik writes a nice article featuring Hoby Wedler, a blind UC Davis graduate student, who is leading blind wine tastings at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville.  There's a lot at stake as the battle lines are being drawn between Empire Wine and the New York State Liquor Authority.  Although we haven't tried it yet we're tempted; Alder Yarrow has found a company that can help make receiving shipments of wine less problematic.  If you adhere to a vegan diet Sara Rennekamp provides a more in-depth viewpoint into the winemaking process, so that you can make a more informed decision when purchasing your wines.  Alder's first walk through the famed Grand Cru vineyards of Champagne was not what he had expected.  The photos and video that accompany the article are appalling.  Conversely Caroline Henry has found that there is successful budding culture of sustainable growing that is taking hold in the Champagne region.  In this week on VinoWeek we tackle these subjects and a few more as we strive to keep you up to date on what's going on in the world of wine.  Thanks for listening and if you like what you hear please tell a friend.  Cheers!