VinoWeek Episode 41 - Cork Taint

After watching a video by Julien Miquel, Bill and I jump off onto the topic of cork taint. Julien’s insight on “What is cork taint? Why are so Many Wines Corked?” is a must see video. The iconic wine retailer Bottle Barn now has an online presence. If you already buy wines online, do yourself a huge favor and put them on your list of suppliers. There’s a six bottle minimum, but the shipping is free. Jessica Zimmer writes a post that gives a historical viewpoint of how White Zinfandel saved Napa Valley. Noteworthy wine blogger Tom Wark of Wark Communications, a wine P. R. firm, has moved his family from Napa Valley to a new home in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. He writes his own exit interview for the Napa Valley wine business community. The new Prisoner Winery tasting room in St. Helena is the bomb. Owned by Constellation Brands and perched directly off Highway 29, the tasting room could be described as Napa Valleys newest and coolest foodie and wine destination. So why have they been issued a code violation notice? Bill and I discuss these topics and many more in this weeks addition of VinoWeek. Thanks to everyone for listening. Cheers!

The wine of the week is the 2013 Castello Colle Massari Montecucco Rosso Riserva. The Colle Massari estate is located in the southern part of Tuscany, approximately forty miles south of Siena, roughly a hour and twenty minute drive. The vineyards, cerified organic, are located on the Montecucco hill which gives its name to the Montecucco DOC, awarded in 1998. By law a Montecucco Rosso (red) wine must contain a minimum of 60% Sangiovese. The first vintage of Colle Massari was in 2000 and in 2014 Colle Massari was awarded the Gambero Rosso 2014 Winery of the Year Award. The owners Maria Iris and Claudio Tipa, also own Tenuta San Giorgio and Poggio di Sotto both in Montalcino and Grattamacco in Bolgheri, so one could say they are firm believers in the terroir of Southern Tuscany. My wife and I first discovered Colle Massari at a local wine shop in a small village south of Siena called Serra di Rapolano. We stayed in that village for ten days and we wiped out that wine stores stock of Colle Massari. Every since then we have been big fans of the wines made at that estate. You can learn more about the Colle Massari estate here.

The 2013 Montecucco Riserva was aged in oak barrels for 18 months and then spent a year in the bottle before it was released. The wine is composed of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. A deep ruby color in the glass, the nose displays black plums, cherries and hints of licorice and leather. On the palate the frame is medium bodied, smooth tannic structure, and well balanced acidity. This wine won’t bowl you over with complexity but it’s a fine example of Sangiovese from Southern Tuscany. The current vintage 2015 retails for about $20. 14% abv

Located between Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano, the vineyards covering the Montecucco hills of Colle Massari produce a lovely expression of South Tuscan Sangiovese.

Located between Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano, the vineyards covering the Montecucco hills of Colle Massari produce a lovely expression of South Tuscan Sangiovese.

VinoWeek Episode 40 - Are You What You Drink?

Have you ever wondered when is the best time to drink a wine and will it get better with age? This week Bill and I discuss an article written by Courtney Schiessl titled, how to tell if your wine will age. The Cotes du Rhone region is on a four year streak of excellence. For that matter so is much of Europe. Dave McIntyre pens a thought provoking piece for the Washington Post. The premise of which is, what your wine choices say about you. Thanks to everyone for listening. Cheers!

The wine of the week is the 2016 Chionetti Briccolero Dogliani. This is a Dolcetto (dohl-Chet-toh) from the area around the town of Dogliani (dohl-Yan-nee). The Dolcetto of Dogliani are so well known, that the best wines from the area are simply labeled as Dogliani, as this wine is. Briccolero (bree-Koh-layro) denotes a single vineyard. Dolcetto is grown though out Piedmont and Liguria, which occupy the northwest region of Italy. In Piedmont it’s typically cultivated in areas where Nebbiolo cannot be counted on to ripen reliably. Here in the land of Barolo and Barbaresco, Dolcetto is the wine the locals drink, while they are waiting for their Nebbiolo based wines to mature. Dolcetto is a grape with low acidity but it can have substantial tannins.

Founded in 1912 by Giuseppe Chionetti, the current owner Quinto Chionetti organically farms 34.5 acres. He produces three single vineyard wines, San Luigi, La Costa and Briccolero. The Briccolero vineyard sits on a hill, with southeast exposure, above his home and is dominated by a large pine tree at the top. With lightly colored, calcareous soils, the vines are guyot trained and low to the ground. The grapes are hand harvested and the wines, 100% Dolcetto, are crafted using spontaneous fermentations and no filtering. The Briccolero ages for one year in cement tanks with 10 to 15% in large oak barrels.

In the glass it’s a deep purple color. Aromas of violets, black fruits and licorice jump out of the glass. On the palate, blackberries, black plums and mulberries. It’s medium bodied, the fruit deeply concentrated and intense, yet all the while silky smooth. Remarkable length and persistence on the finish, Chionetti wines are known for their ability to age gracefully, but it drinks so well now I can’t envision any of the bottles I purchased making it past their third birthday. 14% alc - $26 - $30

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VinoWeek Episode 39 - Fighting Extradition

On this podcast Bill and I discuss the lawsuit involving Opus One Winery and one of their barrel suppliers. Joe Wagner of Copper Cane Wines keeps moving forward and is putting the finishing touches on a new bottling facility in Fairfield California. Will he continue to make and bottle his Oregon wines in California? As if you didn’t already know. San Francisco is ridiculously expensive to live in and own a business. Restaurants are changing the way they do business in order to survive. If you are a farmer in Nebraska, Costco is coming to your neighborhood. It just may be a lose, lose situation for the state though. Our favorite gangster is still on the lamb, valiantly fighting extradition to India. The SF Chronicle staff has come up with an excellent list of 12 Sonoma Wineries that offer free tastings. Thanks to everyone for listening. Cheers!

VinoWeek Episode 38 - 2018 A Banner Vintage for California

On this podcast Bill and I talk about the economic impact of the past few years of fires on the restaurant and wine business in Northern California. Our favorite billionaire, Liquor/ Indian gangster Vijay Mallya, who now resides in London, is vigorously fighting extradition back to India. So far so good for him and not so good for all the Indian bankers that bankrolled his alleged money laundering activities. Fashion mogul Antonio Moretti has been accused of money laundering and tax evasion by the Italian authorities and has been placed under house arrest with his son Andrea. Moretti owns several high end winery operations in Tuscany and Sicily and those assets among others have for the moment been seized by the government. Entrepreneur Joe Wagner of Copper Cane Wines has run afoul of the TTB and the Oregon Liquor Control Commission . It's a complicated case involving clever marketing , logistics and politics that Liza Zimmerman does a good job of covering for Wine Searcher. Year 2018 by most accounts has been a great vintage in Northern California with many vintners having enjoyed a low stress growing and harvest season. We discuss these topics and offer some beer and wine suggestions too. Thanks to everyone for listening. Cheers!

VinoWeek Episode 37 - California Wildfires Becoming More Violent

We recorded this podcast on Veteran's Day weekend so  a little politics weaved its way into the content. Bill and  I talk about the wildfires we have experienced in California this year and eventually we got around to some wine talk. And yes we've got some good wine recommendations for you as always.

Cheers!

Referenced in the show

For Veterans Day Watch: Fallen

Read the XIII Amendment

Watch: Kayne on the XIII and other stuff

Camp Fire 2018




20 Wines to Try Now

A few weeks ago we met up with some friends that invited us to a local jazz concert. The concert was great and it helped reinforce the idea that we should attend  more live music events. With the start of fall and the holidays rapidly approaching we find ourselves entertaining more and being invited to more engagements. When invited to someone's home we always ask what should we bring and the answer always seems to be, "bring some wine". I love that answer because I enjoy sharing new wine discoveries. As it turns out unbeknownst to me our friend that invited us to the concert is an avid wine lover. Needless to say when we met for breakfast the next morning we had an enjoyable conversation about our most recent wine finds. He asked me to put together a list of wine recommendations for him. Here's the crib sheet of the list I sent him. Really it's a list of some of my perennial  favorites, wines you can count on to deliver great experiences from vintage to vintage. The referenced retailers are all on the west coast as that's where our friends reside, but most of these wines should be widely available.

2015 Luigi Boveri "Derthona" Timorasso Colli Tortonesi:  This is a fairly rare white Piedmontese variety. It's not new, but it has good texture and intriguing flavors. Don't let the odd cork throw you off. $16 at K&L Wines

2016 Lewis Cellars Sonoma Russian River Chardonnay:  High standard are being set here by former Formula Three and Indy Car racer Randy Lewis and his family. Whole cluster pressing, barrel fermentation, sur lies ageing with battonage , all in French oak, with no filtering or fining, makes for a full throttle intensely rich wine. A special bottle to be shared with good friends. $50 K&L Wines

2015 Dehlinger unfiltered Chardonnay:  The Dehlingers have been growing grapes and making wine in Sebastopol for over 40 years. It's all old school here; old vines, Wente clones, whole cluster pressing, fermenting and aging in french oak barrels and no filtering. The epitome of Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. $42 Prima Vini

2016 Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc:  Hugh Chappelle makes the wines here and they are all phenomenal. The grapes are farmed using biodynamics and the wines are Demeter Certified. Let's just say they care about the earth now and they're looking past their own time here on earth as well. This Sauvignon Blanc has more body and intensity of flavors than most. Aged in Acacia barrels its rich and sublime. Try it next to your favorite new world Sauvignon Blanc or a Sancerre. $20 K&L wines

2017 Pinot Grigio Lunaria "Romoro" (orange wine):  This is an orange wine but if you're pouring it for friends just tell them it's rosè,  unless of course you want to get into a discussion of what orange wine is. 30 days skin contact. It comes from a local cooperative in Chieti, Italy in the region of Abruzzo. One of the best Rosès I've tasted this year. $16 They are still looking for a distributor so it's currently only available through Organic Wine Exchange. A Biodynamic vineyard and organic wine.

2015 Montenidoli Vernaccia Di San Gimignano: This wine hails from Tuscany and is made by Signora Fagiuoli. A delightful woman who likens winemaking to cooking, just on a larger scale. A cornucopia of intense flavors to accompany the minerality and bright acidity this wine will change your viewpoint on Italian white wines. Hard to find but worth the hunt. $18 Liner & Elsen

2017 Brooks Pinot Gris:  Do try this if you like aromatic white wines that feature no winemaking hocus pocus.  Native yeast and no additives and minimal use of sulfites make this wine a pure expression of Pinot Gris. You can order this wine directly from Brooks Wine.

2016 Pey Marin "Shell Mound" Riesling: From the hills of West Marin County Jonathan and Susan Pey have found a niche spot for growing Rielsing. Minimal intervention is the key here. No oak barrels, no malolactic, native yeast and long cool fermentations with ageing on the lees for complexity. Green apples and white peaches with good balance. This one really opens up and blossoms with time in the glass. $25 Ludwigs Fine Wines

2016 Obsidian Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon: Northeast of Napa county the red hills of Lake County have for many years been supplementing the shortage of high quality grapes in Napa Valley. As grape prices have grown so has the price of a good bottle of Napa Cabernet. With Obsidian Ridge you get to enjoy high quality Cabernet grown on volcanic soils at an elevation of 2,640 feet in the Mayacamus Mountains. Aged in Hungarian oak this cab is all black fruit, earth and luxury. Family owned and a great story behind it, I discovered this gem 7 or 8 years ago and I always have some stored away in my wine stash. $27 at K&L Wines

2014 Emiliana Coyam: An organic blend from Chile's Colchagua Valley. Predominantly Syrah and Carmenere with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mouvedre, Malbec and Petit Verdot rounding out the blend. In a word elegant, the wine is full bodied with black and blue fruits, moderate tannins and acidity. No rough edges here, you can drink and now and be happy, but I'd stash a few bottles to enjoy in the coming years as well. $29 Fine Wine House

2016 Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone: I was first introduced to the wines of Saint Cosme by a wine they called Little James' Basket Press, a non vintage Cotes du Rhone, that several years back was about $7 a bottle. The Saint Cosme CDR is a more serious wine, offering more complexity. Syrah leads the blend with Grenache not far behind. Hands down one of the best values out of the Rhone Valley. Black and blue fruit with hints of licorice and lavender. Jump on this one quick because it always sells out fast. $14 at KL Wines

2015 Domaine Lafage "Bastide Miraflors" Cotes du Roussillon: 70% Syrah 30% Grenache.  The Grenache is  fermented and aged in concrete tanks so nothing gets in the way of the delicious red fruit and the Syrah is aged in 600 liter French oak demi-muids. A fantastic value from the Roussillon region in south-western France. We bought a case of this recently. We have two bottles left and I'm re-upping. Enough said. $13 K&L Wines

2016 Trentadue Old Patch Red:  The Trentadues used to farm apricots and cherries in what is now Silicon Valley. They saw the writing on the wall and escaped the urban sprawl and settled in Healdsburg nearly sixty years ago. 68% Zinfandel, 25% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane, 3% Syrah. Don't let the simple label and screw-top closure fool you. The deep purple color, bold black cherry, vanilla and oak flavors will win you over. I'm still not sure how they do it year in year out but it's consistently good and a no brainer at about $11.

2015 Klinker Brick Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel:  50+ year old vines, black berry jam, sappy black cherry, cocoa, toasty oak and  vanilla. Mild tannins but packed with flavor. There's nothing subtle here, this wine is a hammer. Put it up against your boldest barbecue fair and it will win you over. If you decide to have it without food decant it for a few hours beforehand. $15 K&L Wines

2015 Chateau Lanessan Haut-Médoc:  Those who enjoy good Bordeaux and good value know about this Chateau. And this wine from the praiseworthy 2015 vintage shows particularly well. Lanessans always seem to age well, but I suspect most of these will be consumed earlier than later. Dark red color, black currant, red fruit nose. Well balanced ,the fruit leads and the oak is well integrated. A sleeper from a great vintage. Classic Bordeaux without the sticker shock! $20 K&L Wines

2015 Chateau Fonplégade Saint-Emilion: Vineyard placement can be just like real estate. Fonplégade's next door neighbors are Chateau Canon and Canon La Gaffelière. Add world famous consulting enologists Michel Rolland and Stéphane Derenoncourt and you've got a recipe for exceptional wines. Their 2015 fits the bill. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, deep purple in the glass it's powerful, showing cushy black fruit, with subtle hints of espresso and tobacco. Made with organic grapes. $38 - $50

2015 Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva: The father and son duo, Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari respectively, own six estates in the Tuscan region. This wine hails from Greve. I've been drinking  Nozzole Chianti Classico for decades and the improvements over the years have taken the wine in a decidedly modern direction. It's 100% Sangiovese,  and sports an updated new label. Medium garnet in the glass the nose shows red cherries, toasty oak, earth and hints of tobacco. Full rich red fruit flavors on the palate with well integrated acids and moderate tannins. The finish has a touch of spice and is long and savory. Very approachable right now. Pop the cork and it's ready to go. $20 K&L Wines

Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco Brut: Take this one and some fresh flowers to your next house party and you'll always be invited back. You can buy 6$ Prosecco at the supermarket or you can splurge and get the real thing here. Primo Franco only makes Prosecco and this is his base bottling. Ditch the champagne flutes and serve it in a white wine glass to fully enjoy the golden color and crisp green apple and pear notes on the nose. The bright acidity and creamy texture make it a great aperitif. Everyone will be asking you, where did you get this wine? $15

2016 Medici Ermete Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco: The Medici Ermete brand is headed by Alberto Medici. His family has been farming in Emilia-Romagna for over 120 years. They make a variety of Lambrusco wines most of them blends, but Concerto is 100% Salamino Lambrusco. Its blackish ruby red color and the bright magenta froth is immediately recognizable when poured in the glass. Aromas and mouth filling flavors of ripe black and red fruits, a vibrant palate and lingering finish with lip smacking acidity. This is serious, vintage dated, benchmark Lambrusco; a perennial Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri winner. $22

Happy holidays and happy shopping. Cheers!

 

Single Post Riesling

"I don't like Rielsing." Wait for it. "It's too sweet." If I had a dollar for every time I heard those words when I was in wholesale and retail trade I'd have a very nice cellar of Rieslings. I'm not trying to convince anyone anymore about the merits of German Riesling, for now long living in the shadows of Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I'll leave that chore to Jancis Robinson and the sommeliers of fine dining establishments. Having championed German Riesling for decades now, if Jancis' breadth of knowledge and proselytizing about the virtues of Riesling doesn't make you more curious about the wine, you can't be helped. Notice how I mentioned the red wines before the Chardonnay. Well, that's because anybody that knows anything about wine, knows there is only one real type of wine and it has to be red. Cheers to the "Big Reds Only Guy", downing glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon at mid-summer outdoor barbecues. 

Alright enough with the sarcasm, lest you think I don't like German Riesling. I love Riesling. I suppose one of the reasons I love German Riesling is the tradition behind it. Some of the best Riesling wines hail from the  incredibly steep valley slopes of  the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer rivers in the southwestern region of Germany not too far from the borders of France and Luxembourg. Farming and harvesting on these steep slopes can be done by machines but it's still mostly done traditionally by hand, using seasonal workers from eastern Europe. A machine harvester can replace fifty grape pickers, start work at a moments' notice and doesn't need to take breaks during its shifts. As time marches on the machines will do more and more of the work, although I'm not convinced for now, that the machines do a better job than humans. Holding to tradition Nik's vineyard holdings are still hand harvested. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks and aging in seasoned Fuder  ( thousand liter oak barrels) make German Rielsings truly unique wines. One of the reasons German Riesling is touted as having the greatest ability to express the differences in terroir is the fact that the German winemakers eschew new small oak barrels in the cellar for fermentation or aging. This allows for a truer expression of what the grapes have to offer in the finished wines. Think of new oak barrels as condiments in your kitchen and without the use of your condiments you have only the true flavors of your base ingredient.

The object of my desires this week is the 2015 Single Post Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett from the Saar River Valley. Nik Weis is in charge of this operation and his grandfather Nicolaus Weis built the St. Urbans-Hof estate after the war, by the village of Leiwen in 1947. The family owns an extensive amount of vines (33 hectares) in the Mosel and Saar area. The grapes for the Single Post come from a leased portion of  the Ockfener Bockstein vineyard so the Single Post bottling is a secondary label for St. Urbans-Hof. Even though you don't get their distinctive black and gold label that adorns their top wines,  you do get  a wine that has been raised under the watchful eye of Nik Weis, from a Grand Cru vineyard. That in itself is a great value because Nik makes great wines at fair prices.

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    Ockfener 

The Single Post Riesling is crafted from grapes grown on the steep south facing slopes of the Bockstein Vineyard above the village of Ockfen. Bock is a buck in German and a stein is a rock.

 

 German wine labels in the past have been notoriously famous for their Gothic fonts and tongue twisting names which could be difficult to read and understand. Nik is a smart marketer, electing to use easy to understand labeling, but still giving a nod to the old schoolers. For this wine the label clearly states Single Post Riesling in bold red and gold fonts. Typically used on steep slopes where trellising is not possible 'Single Post' vines have their own stake with two canes bent in the shape of a heart. A drawing of this vine training style is featured on the  front label. For the traditional old schoolers the name of the village, vineyard and wine style is in smaller font towards the bottom of the label. Ockfener meaning from the village of Ockfen. Bockstein is the name of the vineyard site, set in a side valley of the Saar River with a 50% slope and a southwest exposure. Kabinett denotes a high quality wine made in a light style. Turn the bottle around and you essentially get the same information on the back side along with the International Riesling Foundation Taste Profile. For the consumer this easy to read scale makes buying German Rielsing much easier. The bottle features a red colored stelvin closure with the words con natura non invicem. A nod to Nik's recent affiliation with the Fair and Green Association which espouses a holistic sustainability concept. Consequently traditional and natural winemaking methods are used in Nik's cellars instead of some of the modern technology and hocus pocus you may witness in other cellars.

The Single Post Riesling has a light amber color and displays lemon-lime, white peach and intriguing leesy aromas. On the palate it's Golden Delicious apples and apricots all wrapped in honey. At 8% alcohol its off dry, delicately light with vibrant acidity and a long lengthy finish that leave you wanting more. In our household once a bottle of Single Post is opened there's never any left over for tomorrow. Both the 2015 and the 2016 vintage are currently available on the market. $18 to $20

                                                               

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     The village of Ockfen     

                              photo courtesy of Ockfen.com

Is Wine Shopping Online Worth the Effort?

I seldom buy a case of wine without first tasting a bottle. A case of wine is a big commitment, monetarily and space wise. Besides it would suck to be stuck with eleven bottles of wine I didn't appreciate. However we do purchase a lot of wine on line, some of it from flash wine sites as well as traditional online wine retailers. There are so many wines I have acquired a taste for that are just not available at retail stores where we live. Consequently I am a subscriber to several flash wine sites. It takes a bit of getting used to the daily emails urging you to "Act Now!", on this incredible deal or lose out. The sales psychology of scarcity and hyperbolic wine descriptions are the norm in this arena. Oh and if your boss frowns on wine deliveries to your office you'll have to figure out other ways around the an adult signature is required BS.  If you're unsure about a wine you're considering purchasing, remember the internet is your friend. Searching for reviews and checking wine-searcher.com or 1000corks.com to verify pricing will go a long way toward helping you make sound decisions.  As much as I like going to the wine shops in person, browsing the store and having chats with the wine guys, I must admit shopping online is a huge time saver. I do most of my online buying from October to May. To avoid the chance of the wine being cooked to death by heat, don't have your wines shipped during the summer. Buying wine online can be a hit and miss proposition. Your best chances  for success are dealing with a trustworthy retailer and knowing the producers or importers.

Here's how flash wine sites work. Wineries are juice factories and sometimes the juice is not selling fast enough. Storage is costly and if the wineries' banker is calling wondering where their money is, flash wine sites can be a quicker way to raise cash. Perhaps the harvest is around the corner and the vintner needs the space for the incoming crop. Wine that's held in tank or in unlabelled bottles offers the producer more flexibility. If the wine is still in tank, once a price is agreed upon the winery can bulk it out to another bottler, or bottle it for a flash seller at a discount. This is the business model that of Costco fame discounter Cameron Hughes used for years. Once the U.S. economy improved and the excess juice dried up, the company struggled with solvency. Cameron Hughes was recently purchased out of bankruptcy by Santa Rosa based Vintage Wine Estates. If the wine are in unlabeled bottles the winery can put a different label on it, as opposed to using their primary brand label. Same wine different label is a fairly common practice in the wine business. For example, in the U. S. the term 'private reserve' on a wine label may signify a wine of distinction, from a special vineyard or barrel lot, but in reality, and legally, two wines from the same vat can have different labels.  When there's lots of extra juice around there are bargains galore. Everybody loves a bargain and flash sites move wine quickly. Depending on how aggressive the discounts are, sometimes in just hours. If the wines are already bottled and labeled it becomes a little more problematic for the winery. Putting a wine in the market place at a discount in places where it is already being marketed at full retail could violate an agreement you have with a distributor and also erode your products perceived value to the consumer.

Several months ago I received an offer from Last Bottle, a Napa Valley based flash wine vendor offering a 2015 Côtes du Rhone for about a ten spot, with free shipping if you purchased eight or more bottles. Last Bottle usually sources predominately California wines. It's fascinating to me how many unheard of $100 California Cabernets are available at a 50% discount.  Being a sucker for CDR and having tasted so many wonderful Rhone wines from the 2015 vintage already, I decided to pull the trigger and order a case. Last Bottle's fulfillment operations are an hour to the east of us so we usually get our order in two to three business days. I typically let any wine that's shipped to us rest undisturbed for several weeks before I try it. Maybe it's the fact that the shipping distance is so short, but I like that  Last Bottle doesn't  use styrofoam shippers when sending us our wine. Where does all that styrofoam go anyway?

When I received the wine and checked the label I didn't recognize the producer, but when I turned the bottle around I was pleasantly surprised to see the shipper Jeff Welburn's name, prominently displayed on the back label. As I was already familiar with Jeff's  high quality selections from other areas of the Rhone Valley, Saint-Joseph and Gigondas, I stashed the wines in the wine cooler confident that I had made a good purchase.

Before trying the wine I did a little research and discovered that the wine was made by Frédéric et Benoit Lavau Vinificateurs. It's a family operation that has three winemaking cellars in the southern Rhone Valley. They work with over 350 grape growers and make wine from nearly all of the appellations in the southern Rhone Valley.

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              Our all purpose BBQ red for the month of May

What's the wine like? The 2015 Réserve Des Galets Côtes-du-Rhône is 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah with 13.5 % alcohol. The wine is medium ruby in color and the nose exhibits black and red fruits, lavender and a  hint of iodine. On the palate, bright red fruit flavors, light acidity and soft tannins. It has a simple clean finish. It's everything a $10 CDR should be. Easy drinking and you don't need to think about it.  Just enjoy. It's barbecue season and this wine is the perfect accompaniment for just about anything that comes off the grill. Last time out we had it with grilled spicy Santa Fe chicken thighs and a lightly dressed Caesar Salad.

Is online wine buying worth the effort? Based upon my experiences over the last several years I'd say yes. What are you waiting for? Get in the pool the waters fine. And remember there really is no need to act hastily. Do your  research and know what you want before the offers even appear. Because after all wine is like buses. There's always another good one coming down the line.

Cheers!

 

Grand Cru Classes of Saint-Emilion  

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Monday November 13th marked the showing of the 2015 vintage of Grand Cru Classé wines of Saint-Emilion at San Francisco's Terra Gallery. The 2015 vintage was a banner year in Saint-Emilion as it was for many of the wine growing regions in Europe. 

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The town of Saint-Emilion is about 25 miles northeast of the city of Bordeaux, the epicenter of the Bordeaux wine region in southwest France, its climate moderated by its close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Just about any wine book you pick up to learn about wine will start with the vaunted history of French wines and then launch into explaining the Bordeaux region with all its ranking and classifications. Don't let that discourage you. All it really takes to learn about Bordeaux wines is a little reading and a lot of tasting. Within the Bordeaux region there are some fifty-seven wine regions and one could easily argue that Saint-Emilion is one of the most noteworthy red wine regions in all of France.

                                                                                       Guy Meslin of Chateau Laroze 

                                                                                       Guy Meslin of Chateau Laroze 

 The wine estates north of Bordeaux are considerably larger than the wine estates in the Saint-Emilion region, so the first thing you should know about the latter is that the wines have less availability and  are pricy. The second thing you should know and this is the scary part for those that have the herd mentality, is that Saint-Emilion wines are predominantly Merlot, with Cabernet Franc taking a minor role and Cabernet Sauvignon an even lesser role. So if you are still running with the crowd that thinks Merlot is so out, you're missing out on some wonderful wines. The French have had hundreds of years to figure out what grapes grows best on what soils and Merlot is king on the right bank terrain. The Bordeaux region is split in half  by the Gironde River and its tributaries and as the river flows north-west to the Atlantic the regions on the southwest side are called left bank wines and those on the northeast side are called right bank wines. 

The wines of Saint-Emilion are classed in four tiers and the classification is reviewed and updated every ten years. The last classification was in September 2012. The Association de Grands Cru Classés de Saint-Emilion was formed in 1982 to promote the wines of Cru Classé growers and improve quality among their Chateaux. The top three tiers Premiers Grands Crus Classés A, Premiers Grand Crus Classés B and Grand Crus Classés are where most of the quality wines are to be found. There are a total of 81 chateaux in these three tiers. The important sounding and misleading fourth tier St-Émilion Grand Cru includes hundreds of chateaux located on the lesser terroir of the Saint-Emilion area. A caveat here; a properties ranking is not a guarantee of quality and there are some that should have a higher ranking and others that are clearly underperforming  at their current ranking.

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The Terra Gallery located in the SOMA district on Rincon Hill in San Francisco was a wonderful spot for the tasting. A spacious venue offering plenty of natural lighting, lots of fresh water, with spittoons on designated tables in the center of the room and the purveyors, 23 in all arranged in a large u-shape. Having the spittoons in a different area from where the wines are being poured is an idea that more wine exhibitors should consider using. It serves two purposes, no unsightly expectorating at the presenters table, and once you've received a pour and taken a sip you have to move away from the table to go to the spitting area, freeing up the table for another taster. There were a lot of different types of artisan breads available for cleansing the palate and a good variety of mildly flavored cheeses if one started feeling a bit peckish. 

                                                             Cyrille Grégoire of Chateau Ripeau

                                                             Cyrille Grégoire of Chateau Ripeau

Each chateau poured a wine from a previous vintage with the exception of Chateau Ripeau, which showed their inaugural 2015 vintage. Showing a deep purple color, a gorgeous black fruit and licorice nose, medium to full bodied on the palate, with a lush juicy texture and good length on the finish, I was very impressed with the owner Cyrille Grégoire's premier effort and deemed it one of the top wines at the tasting. Of recent the Grégoire family story has been one of tragedy and optimistic rebirth. The new blacksmith logo on their label serves as a symbol of the families enduring character. Unfortunately for us estimated production is only around 1,500 cases.

 Comparing and contrasting the different vintages side by side was very enlightening. A rising tide lifts all boats and the majority of the  2015 wines I tasted displayed beautiful deep purple color, lush fruit, silky textures, great freshness, with good power and concentration. Close to half of the producers elected to show their 2014 wines alongside the 2015's. In my opinion this strategy backfired with most of the 2014's coming off as tight on the nose and thin on the palate with light persistence. The 2015 vintage is miles ahead of 2014 when it comes to quality and I suggest that you taste the 2014's before you plunk down your hard earned cash. Mind you Bordeaux can be tricky. Recently I've had several 2007 Bordeaux, a poor vintage by most accounts, that have showed surprisingly well.  

At the tasting I found the 2012's to be well developed and drinking well. Regarding the 2010's, I wish I had bought more when they were initially released. Sometimes the hype is right. If remembering vintages isn't your thing here's a quick trick for buying Bordeaux. Any year divisible by five since 1985 strengthens your chances of picking a good bottle.

The tasting gave me an opportunity to taste wines that have less distribution on the west coast because of their low production numbers.  Although it could have easily been done,  I did not try all the wines that were available. It was too easy to get side tracked talking with the property owners. If a property's wine that was shown is not on this list, it most likely infers that I didn't get an opportunity to try it. 

Some of the 2015 wines are already available and more will be making their way to the marketplace this winter as we're already starting to see pre-arrival offers being sent out. In general the prices range from $30 to $50 a bottle. The 2015 vintage will be hyped and the buying window will be narrow, so start making your purchases early to ensure you get your favorite wines. Here's a quick list of my favorites listed below in two categories and in alphabetical order.

 

Outstanding

Chateau Bellefont-Belcier 2015  68%Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon  $40 - $50

Chateau Couvent Des Jacobins 2015  85%Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot   $40 - $55

Chateau Dassault 2015  75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon   $40 - $45

 Chateau Fonplegade 2015  95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc   $38 - $48

Chateau Grand Pontet 2015  88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon   $30

Chateau Grand Pontet 2010  70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon   $45

Chateau La Marzelle 2015  80% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon   $40

Chateau LaTour Figeac 2015  70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc   $40 - $45

Chateau Laroze 2012  62% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon   $32

Chateau Ripeau 2015  90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc not available

 

Very good

Chateau Bellefont-Belcier 201  76% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon   $55 - $60

Chateau Couvent Des Jacobins 2010  85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc   $50

Chateau De Pressac 2015  72% Merlot, 16%Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauv, 2% Carmenère,    $30

Chateau Fombrauge 2015  91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Malbec $25 -$35

Chateau Fonplegade 2014  95%Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc   $40

Chateau Fonroque 2015  85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc   $30

Chateau Franc Mayne 2015  90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc   $30- $33

Chateau Franc Mayne 2012  90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc not available

Chateau Grand Corbin 2015  77%Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon   $32 - $40

Chateau Jean Faure 2014   50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot, 5% Malbec   not available

Chateau Laroze 2015   62% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon   $33

Chateau Le Prieure 2015   80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc   $40

Chateau Yon Figeac 2015   82% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot   $30

Chateau Couvent Des Jacobins 2010   85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc   $50

Chateau De Pressac 2015   72% Merlot, 16%Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauv, 2% Carmenère,    $30

Chateau Fombrauge 2015   91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Malbec $25 -$35

Chateau Fonplegade 2014   95%Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc   $40

Chateau Fonroque 2015  85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc   $30

Chateau Franc Mayne 2015   90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc   $30- $33

Chateau Franc Mayne 2012   90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc not available

Chateau Grand Corbin 2015   77%Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon   $32 - $40

Chateau Jean Faure 2014   50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot, 5% Malbec   not available

Chateau Laroze 2015   62% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon   $33

Chateau Le Prieure 2015   80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc   $40

Chateau Yon Figeac 2015   82% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot   $30   

 

As always, enjoy!    

                             

Vino101 Episode 36 - A conversation with Alex Guarachi

Bill and I recently had the opportunity to chat with Alex Guarachi, founder of Guarachi Wine Partners.  Guarachi Wine Partners represents sixteen brands from six countries. During our interview Alex shares how and why he entered the wine business and how he sees the industry changing. Even though he's been in the business over three decades now, his enthusiasm and passion came forth as if he's just started business last week.  We came away energized by his warmth and spirit. We know you'll enjoy his story and a brief look inside the world of wine.

Cheers!